How do you get blonde flooring? How do you get light hardwood floors? Which types are the lightest?

1. Species
2. Stain color (or no stain color)
3. Type of polyurethane (oil based vs water based poly)
Please note that this article may contain affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure at the bottom of the page.
Background on light (or blonde) types of hardwood

Some like more color variation in the planks and others prefer less.

I will also mention that you can alter all 3 of these components (species, stain and type of poly) or just 1 or 2 of these components. And, it’s important to know that sometimes the stain color and/or species of wood will help dictate which type of polyurethane you should use.
If you are buying new hardwood, you can choose your preferred species – based on look and price point. If you are refinishing existing wood, you’ll need to work with what you have and read below on colors/polyurethanes that work/don’t work on certain species. (Skip to section 2)
So with that said, let’s explore the 3 components one at a time.
1. Which types of hardwood species are the lightest in color?
Red Oak

You can learn more about red oak and white oak here. If you want a reasonably wood and you like light wood, red oak can be a great choice. But, if you prefer smoother and a bit more golden, than white oak may be a better choice.

White Oak

White oak often has more mineral streaks which make it look a bit more modern where as red oak’s strong graining give it a more traditional look.Â
White Oak tends to look better than red oak with water borne poly as well as white wash and gray finishes. More about that below.

Maple

Hard Maple is more expensive than oak and it’s a bit harder than oak (1450 on the janka scale vs 1290 for red oak). Because its graining is smoother than oak, it tends to show scratches a bit more.Â
If you’re looking for hardness, it’s important to get Northern Maple/hard maple which (as the name implies) harder. Some older homes (from the 1920’s and before) have soft maple and southern maple tends to be softer, too.
Please note that maple color variation can vary greatly pending on the grade. For those looking for a modern and light look, choose clear grade. Other grades will have much more color variation with darker boards that will not only make the floors look darker, but also more rustic. See below pictures for the contrast. Clear grade is more expensive.Â
If you are seeing a maple that costs a lot less, chances are because it is a lower grade and will have more color variation and knots.
You can learn more about Maple flooring here.
Birch

Like maple, Birch doesn’t stain well and it’s best to use water borne polyurethane to prevent yellowing.
Ash

Please note that I wasn’t able to find a picture of Ash Natural. This one on the right has a stain on it.
Bamboo

It grows and replenishes quickly so it’s seen as a green product, but there are some definite drawbacks to this product and some controversy as to whether it really is eco-friendly or good for the environment.

Bamboo generally can not be sanded and refinished, and/or if it is, it doesn’t absorb the stain or poly well, so it will look worn down after 1-2 years after being sanded on site. So generally when it wears down, it needs to be replaced.Â
Strand woven bamboo is stronger and holds up better, but strand woven is darker than the basic horizontal or vertical grain.

Also, bamboo uses a lot of adhesive to adhere the pieces of grass together, so there are many who are skeptical of the impact of this on air quality and how truly sustainable this product is (not to mention the impact on the carbon footprint from all of the importing).
Grade of wood
In addition to the species of wood, you’ll want to look at the grade of wood. Is it select grade? (Sometimes called select and better). Is it No 1/No 1 common (lower grade) or No 2 Common (even lower?. The lower you go in the grade, the more color variation (i.e. more darker pieces) and more knots you’ll get (as well as shorter lengths.).Â
The left side (below) is red oak select grade; the right side is Red Oak No. 1.
On the higher end of the spectrum, there are different and specialized cuts of wood such as rifted and quarter-sawn, or rifted only or quarter-sawn only. Think here of different cuts of meat. They all come from the same tree, but only a small percent of the wood qualifies and they create more wasted wood.
These woods are significantly more expensive and they have less color variation. You will rarely see these cuts in pre-finished wood. They are often used in site-finished woods either because they are going over radiant heat (these work over radiant heat due to their cuts and lower expansion) as well as higher end homes where some customers prefer the look and want less expansion/contraction of the wood.
So, if your objective is to go light, purchase the higher grades such as select, select and better or clear. (Note: the names of these grades will vary based on the species of wood. You can read a bit more about grades of oak in this article.
2. Which types of hardwood stains are the lightest?
When you sand and refinish wood floors, they look like raw hardwood again. So, if you have solid hardwood, you can go lighter in color, even if your floors currently have a dark stain on them. Most floors in the US, and especially in the Westchester NY/NYC metro area are oak, and these can go fairly light.

In addition, most wood species darken a bit over time due to light (both sunlight and ambient light). So, when you refinish them, they become a bit lighter as the top layer is removed. (Think about our skin and sun tans and what happens when your skin peels).
Natural (i.e. no stain) is generally the lightest you can you go (among the traditional colors)

Above picture is white oak with a walnut border – all natural (i.e. no stain).

White wash

We have been getting many requests for white washed wood from our more upscale and fashion forward customers, especially those moving to Westchester from NYC.

It’s a great way to also add more light to your home.

Most will opt for the higher grade of this (Bona Traffic) as it looks better and lasts longer. It also yellows less over time. It is well worth the extra money for the look and longevity of this product.

White wash does not work well with Douglas Fir nor other pines, both as these woods have golden and red tones (so the colors don’t work well) and the resin in the pines reacts with the white wash and it usually looks blotchy. I would avoid trying this with dark or red woods (e.g. brazilian walnut, brazilian cherry) as I’ve heard these look terrible and you may permanently damage these woods. Better safe than sorry.
Light gray

You can read more about refinishing hardwood floor gray in this article.
Other traditional light stains

- Golden Oak
- Golden Pecan
- Fruitwood
- Ipswich Pine
- Puritan Pine
3. What is the impact of polyurethane on color of floor?

The picture above right is oil based poly (on red oak).

The picture above right is white oak with water borne poly. (white oak is typically darker than red oak).
Above left is white oak with water borne poly. The picture on the right shows water borne on left and oil based poly on right (note: it’s worn down).
Personally, I prefer the look of water-borne poly on white oak floors, but that is a matter of taste. On oak floors either oil based or water based poly can be used (but don’t mix). This is a matter of preference on looks and longevity.
But, with certain species and certain colors, water based is a better choice and should be the only consideration. Below is a quick guide by species and color.
- Red Oak – either oil based or water borne…unless using white or gray…in that case use water-borne
- White Oak – either oil based or water…unless using white or gray…in which case water-borne
Maple – best to use water-borne poly
- Birch – best to use water-borne poly
- Douglas Fir or other pines – best to use oil based (esp since these are softer woods)
- Ash – either water or oil based
Conclusion on Blonde hardwood and light flooring and which types are lightest?

1. If you are buying new wood, get a light colored species, especially red oak, white oak, or maple.Â
2. If you are refinishing existing wood, either go natural or use a white wash stain.Â
3. If you want to go even lighter, consider a water-borne polyurethane (and if using white wash or gray, definitely use a water-borne poly).
Other useful flooring articles:
- 2018 hardwood flooring trends
- How long does it take to sand and refinish hardwood floors?
- Can you change the color of your hardwood floors?
- Stain color trends on hardwood flooring
- What types of hardwood are best for dogs (and pets)?
- What types of wood are best if you have kids?
- FAQ’s for hardwood floor refinishing

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Blonde hardwood and light flooring – Which types are lightest?









Maple – best to use water-borne poly
Excellent resource for any and all flooring questions!!!
Thank you so much, Sharon. I’m so glad this is helpful.
This is awesome article on hardwood flooring. Thank you very much for putting this together.
Thank you so much, Michele. I really appreciate that.
Which is better pickled oak or country white?
I would test them both to see which looks better on your floors and which you prefer. The stains come out different on different floors. It’s not that one is better than the other…just different.
Which would look best with light gray walls?
We are trying to get a light gray stain on maple. Our floor guys suggested that gray will not work on this type of wood. Also that they do not know about using gray “washes”. What is the difference between a gray wash and a gray stain? Your advise is appreciated!
My biggest piece of advice is to find a new installer.
You need one who is comfortable with gray and comfortable staining maple. Both are challenging. Maple can become very blotchy if they don’t know how to do it right, regardless of stain color. It’s critical that they use a conditioner.
BTW, it’s much EASIER (not harder) to get maple gray than oak due to the nature of the wood. So, if they are telling you this, run the other way. It sounds like they are neither experienced (nor comfortable) with maple, nor gray.
Also, gray/gray washes are basically synonyms. And, I would strongly suggest avoiding a premade gray stain from minwax or duraseal or whereever. These are generally more watery and don’t come out well. Instead use a mix of white (made by Bona) and ebony (ideally made by Duraseal).
Located in westchester and Want to get blonde / light colored floors with red oak and avoid it looking pink, red, or orange. What stain would you recommend if any? Using duraseal and bona traffic hd. Thanks so much!!
I’d probably go natural. Bona traffic will prob look less pink and lighter. You could also try golden oak.
Does white wash on a engineered hardwood show footprints and scratches easily?
Hi! Thank you so much for a wonderful and informative website about flooring! I wish I found this site before I bought engineered flooring (I can return most of them thankfully)! I am now leaning towards getting the unfinished white oak floor and I am hoping to get a Scandinavian look. This site recommends using Bona White Primer first then Bona water poly to finish. What is your thought on the primer? Also where would you recommend me getting unfinished select white oak flooring? I am in the Denver area. Thanks!
Kathryn – Yes…but it’s a SEALER not a primer. (never use paint on the floor!). The best sealer for this look is Bona Traffic Nordic seal…you can get it on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/2QjjAqa
Alternatively, you can do a white wash stain.