Ebony stained hardwood vs real ebony (i.e. the species ebony)

These days, dark hardwood floors are all the rage these days. And, as you can read in my 2017 hardwood flooring trend article, the preference is to go darker and darker. Later in this article, I will share some tips how how go darker with your hardwood floors as well as provide brands and links so you can find the proper materials. But first, I’m going to discuss ebony stained vs real ebony.
Ebony (the species) vs Ebony Stained hardwood

The upside for ebony is that it is beautiful and it can be a real show case for your home (if you have a big budget).  For those looking for an exquisite, unique and truly rich looking floor, it’s a great option. It’s unlike any other wood out there. It’s also a much harder wood, so it holds up better to dents.
But, there are many downsides to ebony (aside from the high cost). One disadvantage is the timeline. Often, there can be long lead times to source the wood (e.g. 8 to 12+ weeks). Then, because the wood is denser, it takes longer to acclimate (so it would need to sit in your home probably for at least an extra 2 weeks – or maybe even longer). And, then the install and sanding process would take longer as well.

Another disadvantage of ebony that scratches show more (as they show more in all dark woods and woods that are stained dark). Ebony has a smoother grain vs oak, so scratches show more.
Note that the scratch resistance is the same as other woods. Hardness and scratching are two different things. Hardness is based on how hard the wood is and likely it is to dent if something is dropped on it. Scratching is based on the finish. So there is no advantage nor disadvantage on scratch resistance. The scratch resistance is simply based on the finish itself. (Related: What are the best brands of polyurethane? How do you reduce scratches in hardwood floors?)

So, it is very rare to find real ebony hardwood floors here in the US. You will see plenty of initial interest in ebony, but when people hear about the costs they usually opt for oak instead.
So what are the alternatives for ebony hardwood?

There are multiple ways to refinish with dark stains, pending on how dark the customer wants to go and how much they want to spend, but all of them are SIGNIFICANTLY less expensive than adding real ebony floors.

The above picture uses Duraseal’s True Black. Below is a comparison showing True Black vs Ebony. Ebony is a bit lighter and shows the wood grain more while True Black is more opaque and covers the graining for smoother and even more contemporary look.
Other options (which add on to the cost for refinishing) would include doing a water pop on the floors before you add the stain. This opens up the pores so that the stain is absorbed more evenly and it gives you a deeper hue. There is also an option to use an aniline dye. For either of these solutions, you really need to make sure you have an experienced refinisher who has a lot of experience with these techniques. They aren’t easy.
Related articles:
- How to reduce scratches in hardwood floors
- Dark vs Light Hardwood floors – What are the pros and Cons
- What is a water pop and when does it make sense to do that on hardwood floors?
- 2017 hardwood flooring trends
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Complementary products that will prolong the life of your hardwood floors

Do you need a local flooring contractor? Check out Home Advisors to find someone near you.
For more info, check out my Ebook – Discover the 6 Secrets to Refinishing Hardwood floors.






I recently had my maple hardwoods to ebony. It has been a nightmare dealing with the supposedly certified hardwood person. Blotchy and uneven areas. It’s only been a couple months and every time I clean the floors I see stain coming off. Also dirt seems ingrained in some of the boards making the hardwoods look hazy. And some boards have separated and pealed in between the cracks. He refuses to take any responsibility. He sealed the floors before fixing or retouching the boards that did not stain properly. No he did not water pop since he said it would turn the floor almost black and would not show wood grain that I wanted to see. Please advise.
Jeannette – I’m sorry that this has been a nightmare for you. It sounds like a lot of mistakes may have been made potentially including not sanding properly and not adding a conditioner and perhaps not staining properly. maybe even not allowing enough coats of poly.
But, 2 things you should know. 1) maple does look blotchy with a stain. When you use a conditioner it looks less blotchy, but it still looks blotchy – that is the nature of the wood species and its pores. 2) the one thing that your installer did right (for sure) was NOT to do a water pop. Water popping is for oak and you definitely would not want to do one on maple as it would make the floors even blotchier (and would cancel out the conditioner).
In terms of what you should do, I would have some local hardwood installers look at it and see what they think and then you will need to figure out your next steps (e.g. have the person redo the floors, hire someone else to do, sue or file a small claims case. If it’s from Angie’s list, you can file a complaint and have them mediate). but, first verify what the issue/issues are by some local experts. You can also hire an inspector (maybe find one on NWFA) but you’ll need to pay for that. So, I was suggesting free options first. And, take lots of pictures.
I hope that helps.